Vinum Hadrianum à Atri – Les 5 du Vin
Here we are in Abruzzo, about thirty kilometers northwest of Pescara. Atri, in the province of Teramo, is situated in a hilly region whose average elevation of 450 meters offers occasional views of the Adriatic coast.
Hadria, Hadrianum…
Everything evokes antiquity as you step through the gates of this estate, established in 2018. Its name, Hadrianum, refers to Hadria, a city founded by the Etruscans in the 6th century B.C. The Romans succeeded the founders and developed viticulture. The wine from this region was called Vinum Hadrianum and was considered one of the best in the Roman Empire. For centuries, the people of Hadria perfected the art of aging wine in amphorae (dolia).
Vinum Hadrianum
The estate carries on the legacy and winemaking traditions of ancient Hadria. The property spans 20 hectares, including 13 hectares of vineyards where several native Abruzzo grape varieties grow: Montepulciano, Trebbiano, Pecorino, Passerina, and Montonico.
The Wines
We received a few bottles. Hervé, Daniel, Johan, and I were pleasantly surprised by the distinctive character of the wines; here are our comments:
A nod to antiquity, Trebius is an ancient Roman appellation
Trebius 2024 Trebbiano d’Abruzzo DOC
The green-gold color offers hints of anise and marshmallow before revealing notes of black pepper and basil. On the palate, it offers a dense texture, nicely refreshed by citrus zest with flavors of citron and lemon. Light tannins further reinforce the structure, which takes on notes of slightly salty dried fruits like almonds and hazelnuts. The finish is appreciable, offering a fruity aftertaste of apricot and peaches in syrup.
A white wine with character that is only 12° ABV.
The 15- and 40-year-old Trebbiano d’Abruzzo vines grow in clay and sandy soils at an elevation of 350 m. Hand-harvested, direct pressing, aged for 10 months in stainless steel tanks. €18
The Via Cecilia (Latin: Via Caecilia) was an ancient Roman road connecting Rome to the Adriatic coast
Caeclia 2023 Pecorino Abruzzo DOC BIO
The bright yellow color evokes candied lemon, marshmallow, and white peach, with a slight smoky note. On the palate, its fruity aromas unfold against a light, silky tannic structure. The freshness captivates the palate, which relishes this subtle saline note as well as the graceful bitterness that further enhances the mineral character. The slightly exotic flavors of lychee and mango, combined with black pepper, add an extra layer of complexity.
“Wow, what richness!” exclaimed Johan. Favorite
€18
The name Naevia pays homage to the Gens Naevia, a patrician family that lived in ancient Hadria
Naevia 2023 Pecorino Colli Aprutini Organic
The orange hue hints at well-candied fruit, with cherry and strawberry notes complementing the citrus. The palate, which one might expect to be sweet, is instead quite dry, with slightly astringent tannins and a peppery note that underscores the fruit. An orange wine that offers intense structure with its mineral backbone, a density rooted in the earth, and spices that evoke the Orient.
Favorite
The 10-year-old Pecorino grapes grow in gravelly clay soils at an altitude of 200 meters. Hand-harvested, gently pressed, macerated for 3 months, malolactic fermentation, aged for 4 months in amphorae, followed by a period in stainless steel tanks before bottling and bottle aging prior to release. €22
Aelio refers both to the sun—whose color is identical to that of the wine—and to Emperor Hadrian
Aelio 2022 Trebiano IGT Colli Aprutini
The copper-red hue captivates the eye, just as the nose is taken aback by the promise of such rich, candied flavors…!? What a contrast—we were almost expecting sweetness, yet we’re instantly transported into a world of freshness and brininess, with pronounced tannins that certainly highlight the flavors of candied apricot, plum, raisin, almond, and hazelnut. The deeper you delve into it, the more you find yourself torn between the slightly astringent texture and the aromatic richness. A unique wine that teases the taste buds before sending them into ecstasy.
Love at first sight!
The 20-year-old Trebbiano d’Abruzzo grapes grow in gravelly clay soil at an altitude of 350 meters. Hand-harvested, gently pressed, with a 2-month skin contact maceration, aged in stainless steel tanks, undergoing spontaneous malolactic fermentation, followed by 4 months of aging in amphorae and another 6 months in stainless steel tanks. €22
Publicius pays tribute to an important family from Imperial Rome; their lineage is said to originate from Hadria.
Publicius 2024 Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo DOC Organic
The light ruby color, reminiscent of a Clairet, offers aromas of cherry and watermelon, raspberry, and violet. On the palate, it opens with lively, slightly bitter tannins; in a blind tasting, one might mistake it for a delicate red. Once the flavors settle, one quickly notices notes of raspberry and red currant, beautifully highlighted by the wine’s pronounced freshness and floral notes of citron. Spices such as turmeric and cardamom add complexity, enhanced by a subtle saline undertone. A deep rosé with aging potential.
The Montepulciano d’Abruzzo vines, ranging from 4 to 60 years old, grow at altitudes between 200 and 400 meters in clay-gravel soils. Hand-harvested, direct pressing, aged for 10 months in stainless steel tanks.
€18
www.vinumhadrianum.com
A wonderful discovery thanks to Elisabeth Gabay, who put me in touch with Mavi, who was kind enough to send us a few bottles. And what a wonderful discovery!
Ciao
Marco